Eric Emerges from Retreat

Yesterday, September 9, was a very special day. Caren Ewart and I traveled all, the way to Mirik, India to see Caren's son, Eric Triebelhorn, emerge from a traditional three-year retreat at Bokar Monastery. He and 20 other retreatants, including Kalu Rinpoche, participated in ceremonies that officially ended their retreat which started at about 3:00 AM and lasted until just before noon. We were lucky enough to join the retreatants in the retreat center at 6:30 AM. Sometime later, Caren got to get close to Eric for the first time in over 3 and one-half years. See the picture.

During this time we were able to offer katas and offerings to each of the retreatants and Kalu Rinpoche and Khenpo. I brought pictures of Ben Barta's Sukkha Siddhi thangka from Char and I for each of the retreatants. OK, it was Char's idea, but Ben and I did all the leg work.

Snacks were served in trhe retreat courtyard and there was a procession of all the retreatants, led by Khenpo Lodro Donyod, the abbot of Bokar Monastery. They circumambulated the monastery and then everyone gathered in the main shrineroom for prayers and a long life offering to Kalu Rinpoche. The traditional sweet rice and butter tea were served. Caren has yet to try the butter tea, but I'm working on it.

At lunch, some of Eric's first words were, "There sure are a lot of people." That was repeated several times throughout the day. He plans to come out very slowly and spent the rest of the day in the reteat center. Maybe he will venture part way down the hill to Tsewang's house today for dinner. After lunch, I got a ride down the hill to my hotel on the back of Karma's motorcycle, artificial knees and all.

On the 12th we head for Gyaltsab Rinpoche's monastery in Ralang, Sikkim, with all of the retreatants who will offer thanksgiving to Rinpoche for his empowerments and teachings during the retreat. We will spend a full day there on the 13th and return on the 14th.

On the 17th we plan to attend Kalu Rinpoche's birthday and enthronement ceremony at Sonada Monastery near Darjeeling.

We had spectacular thunderstorms last night about 3:30 AM. Woke me up and I enjoyed the view before going back to sleep. This is the tail end of monsoon, but we've been lucky because there hasn't been much rain while we've been here.

Musings from Mirik

Arrived in India several days ago, but Internet access is dial up only and spotty at best. I came down the mountain from Mirik this morning to Siliguri to get a visa to visit the state of Sikkim. Plan to go to Gyaltsab Monastery for some ceremonies for the three-year retreatants that get out on September 9, tomorrow.

So I'm enjoying a wireless connection at the Hotel Cindrella, arranged by my friend Ngodup. Not to mention the air conditioning. It's very warm down here compared to Mirik. Will be headed back to Mirik in a few hours.

Had a good trip from Kathmandu to Mirik via the small airport at Bhadrapur. Hired a taxi that we shared with a Nepali gentleman who lived about halfway to the Indian border. Got out and walked through both sets of Nepali and Indian customs/immigration and then hired an Indian taxi to take us to Mirik. A fun trip, complete with flat tire. See the picture. But we arrived safely after a 4 and one half hour journey.

The weather in Mirik is better than I expected. It's the tail end of monsoon, but it hasn't rained very much and yesterday was very sunny and no rain. So far no rain today, and I hope it holds for our journey back up the mountain. During a 90 minute car ride we go from about 300 feet in altitude to a little over 5,500 feet. It gives "up" a new meaning.

There will be ceremonies starting about 6:00 AM tomorrow morning for the end of the 3-year retreat. Then on the 13th we will go to Gyaltsab Rinpoche's monastery at Ralang in Sikkim. Will return to Mirik on the 15th and then go to Sonada monastery near Darjiling, to celebrate Kalu Rinpoche's birthday and enthronement on the 17th. Caren returns home the following day in Michael Conklin's care. She's been great to travel with. Traveling in this part of the world requires a lot of flexibility and the ability to just go with the flow when things don't go as planned. Caren has been fun to be with.

The Road to Pullahari

Some (many) roads in Nepal are not passable in Monsoon; and we're experiencing the last rains during our visit. So I knew the road to Pullahari could be difficult; but I wasn't prepared for the sea of mud that confronted our taxi, even on this sunny day. I took a picture on the way down; I was too worried whether we would make it on the way up, to do anything but pray our way through each mud hole.

Pullahari is an amazingly beautiful monastery, with spectacular views of the Kathmandu valley. Caren and I listened to students from a local Tibetan School chant long life prayers for His Holiness Dalai Lama and others. We had lunch at the cafeteria, enjoying the views and the cool breeze as we ate our spring rolls and polkhara. Caren bought some candy and gave it to some little monks.

A kind monk showed us the library with its beautiful parquet wood floors. We also spent some time in the shrine room housing Jamgon Kontrul's kudong (body).

Tonight we lit candles near the stupa. Caren lit them for the completion of Eric's retreat and I lit them for Char's retreat, to remove all obstacles from their paths.

Bkaktapur

Took a taxi to Bhaktapur the old capital city of Nepal, famous for its architecture, temples and artisans. Well worth the 750 rupees admission fee. We hired a guide who was both knowledgeable and friendly. I've uploaded some images to the Current Trip Gallery on TendrelPhotography.com. Or follow this link.

Twelve Km east of Khatmandu, Bhaktapur was founded in the twelfth century by King Anand Dev Malla. The "City of Devotees" is aptly named since Hindus and Buddhists have coexisted peacefully and drawn inspiration from each other. Cars are banned from much of the city, so it's a pleasure to wander the narrow streets and wide open squares without worry of being run over. The streets and sewage system were upgraded through the generosity of the German government following a devastating earthquake in 1934.

Afternoon with JuJu

Caren and I spent a very enjoyable afternoon with my friend JuJu, the owner of JuJu Handicrafts, in Patan. The taxi ride to and from was an adventure, but we found JuJu's new shop. After serving us some good Nepali tea, we walked to Durbar square and around Patan, visiting the Mahabodhi Shrine and the Golden Temple.

We had lunch, courtesy of JuJu, at a rooftop restaurant overlooking Durbar Square. He refused to let me pay, so I extracted a promise that next visit I would return the courtesy.

Rain, Rain, Go Away

Actually saw some blue sky yesterday. It's not actually raining that much; just seems unpredictable as to when it will rain. Caren and I have managed to walk around the stupa everyday; only once required an umbrella. Caren has yet to wear her OSU (Ohio State) poncho. I assured her that every Nepali kid would want one if she ever wears it.

We're planning a day excursion to explore some of the Kathmandu valley, arranged by our hotel manager, Lobsang. Probably do it tomorrow if the weather looks good in the morning.

Yesterday I took some pictures from the roof garden of our hotel (The Valley Inn Guesthouse). Here's one of them. The Boudhanath Stupa is the largest in the world.

From Kathmandu to You

I’m comfortably ensconced in The Valley Guesthouse in Kathmandu, Nepal. Caren Ewart and I arrived yesterday. Caren is Eric Triebelhorn’s mother. Eric is due out of a 3-year retreat at Bokar Monastery in Mirik, India on September 9th.

We’re in Nepal to see a school that Caren is helping to build through the Room to Read Program. Unfortunately, we’ll have to settle for a visit to a similar school, nearer Kathmandu, where we’ll visit on September 2, the day before we leave for India.

If you’re ever in Kathmandu (don’t laugh, I never thought I’d be here once, and this is my second trip) I highly recommend The Valley Guesthouse. We each have a suite with adjoining balconies for about $35 per night, including breakfast. There is a spectacular view of the Boudha stupa and the mountains from the rooftop dining and reading area. The guesthouse is located right behind Thrangu Monastery, so we’re awakened every morning by the monks’ chanting.

On My Way to Kathmandu

I'm in the Portland, OR airport waiting on a United flight to LAX. Then a Thai Air flight non-stop to Bangkok; a few hours layover and then a Thai flight to Kathmandu, Nepal.

It's now 1:57 AM on the 24th of August in Nepal. I'll arrive there, if everything goes as planned, at 12:45 PM on August 25. So about 36 hours elapsed travel time.

More later.